Cable:

Question: [BoP] "Small question. The cable included with the kit has a plastic tube that sticks through the front of the foot box about 2 inches. The first 3/4" is straight then it bends up which takes the cable away from the accelerator pedal. Is there any reason this can't be cut off so that the cable makes a straight shot to the pedal?"

Answers:

[RO] "Yes, just cut the thing off and it works fine. The cable is for a truck and it has a different set up."

[MR] "And while you are at it, cut 1.25" off the top of the pedal arm, Recut the hole/groove for the cable, and mount the pedal as high as possible on the FFR bracket. This gains you back some of the off idle throttle modulation ability (less sensitive throttle)
and still give a smooth cable lead and allows full throttle with pedal down. Best free improvement you can make IMHO."

[JC] "I just recently installed my throttle cable and did exactly what you are suggesting. It works fine. As far as shortening you pedal as suggested by Mark I haven't done. I want the "on/off" switch feel of the pedal."

[PM] "I just cut that bent end off mine last week.....you must be very careful.....its really hard plastic that's not easy to cut and you must be careful not to damage the cable inside....I started with a small tubing cutter to separate the bent part from the rest of the cable then put the bent part in a vise and carefully cut a good amount of it with my cut off wheel then finished it off with a razor knife.."

Question: [AM] "I have my throttle cable routed to the carb from the front (which works great) and assume this is what is normally done in the FFR. I have seen some pics of FFR's with the throttle cable coming from behind the carb. Is this being done with a cable that's longer than the EFI one or is it a custom setup? Seems like running the cable with an "S" curve in it would bind easily."

Comments:

[1389] "I ran mine to the back with the S curve. I used the LOKAR universal cable from Summit. Good quality cable with no binding."

[MrP] "I originally had the "Potato" set up with an "S" in the cable.

I felt there was resistance in the cable from too tight of a bends in the cable.

I converted with the cable approaching from the front of the carb.

I had Russ "Radio Flyer" Thompson build a real cool bracket from a piece billet aluminum (of course)

Looks better and works real smooooth!"

[WP] "I built a front bracket from flat stock steel (Don't have a mill like Russ) and you can see it on my ClubPhoto page."

[DW] "The 36" Lokar works fine from the back. I had the Ford cable attaching to the front, and it would tighten up when the engine got hot. The Lokar from the back is a lot smoother. Summit also has a nice chrome bracket to mount it to the rear carb stud.

BTW, the 24" Lokar is a little short, which
means the bends have to be too tight."

[PM] "just (about 2 hours ago) rec'd my order from Summit with the exact setup. The Lokar braided cable and the Summit chrome bracket. I also picked up the blue anodized return spring and the chrome cable return spring bracket."

[1389] "Alex, I used part number LOK-TC-1000U along with the chrome bracket they sell that the others have mentioned. Don't not know what length it is but have had no problems and it feels fine. I did have to make a delrin bushing for the top of the throttle pedal for the cable to fit into. Made it by hand from a little chunk of delrin."

[K3] "I used a Jag throttle cable, (I know..) but it was long enough to cut down a little. I used the hardware from the lokar universal cable. I have a very gentle S-curve and it works very well. Cable was for an 86 XJ6."

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