| Dash
Installation & Wiring Help
Do you have some dash wiring tricks to share? Then email
me your ideas.
Thanks to Donny Torres [DT], here's a
good picture of the stock Mustang gage pad and how it works. Click
here to view.
Click to start download. If that doesn't work,
right click and "save target as".
Installing a Honda S2000 Starter Button.
Per [EE], The S2000 button has 5 pins.
When looking at the front of the button, the pin directly behind the
"E" in "Engine Start" is Pin 1. Pin two is
next to Pin 1, and Pin 3 is in the middle. The other two pins
are not used. Pin 1 is to the ignition relay, Pin 2 is to the
Battery (+) Positive, and Pin 3 is to (-) Ground. If in doubt,
go to the center pin (Pin 3) and you should have continuity with
only one outside pin (Pin 1) when the button is pressed in.
[BP] If you are using an ignition switch to turn on the power, be
sure to hook up Pin 2 to an ignition hot wire, not consent hot or
the car will start even with the key off.
Plugs to use: (click to enlarge)
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This
is topic Hiding you dash screws in forum Cobra
Grandstand at FFCobra Discussion Forums.
To visit this topic, use this URL:
http://www.ffcobra.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=011738
Posted by Macho Toy (Member # 3) on December 27, 2002,
01:32 AM:
Title says it all. I'm using the donor gauges with the FFR
supplied vinyl but would like to have the "smooth"
look
I've cut, drilled, countersunk and installed SS nuts and
bolts. I'm ready to glue the vinyl on but thought I'd hold off
in case there's a way of hiding the 5 screws I'll be using.
Detailed steps and/or pics are greatly appreciated.
TIA and take care,
Posted by Phil Manro (Member # 50) on December 27,
2002, 09:17 AM:
I didn't hide the screws under the vinyl (I'm not sure how
you'd do this), but I did use screws with black painted heads
(True Value Hardware) and they blend with the dash fairly
well:
More pics here:
http://65cobra2.homestead.com/dash~ns4.html
Phil
Posted by John / My427SC (Member # 189) on December 27,
2002, 10:50 AM:
No screws here
I made some slotted brackets that I attached to the back of
the dash and are at the right height to fit UNDER the dash
hoop. Also, the slot lets me make sure the dash is pressed
backwards against the lip of the body - so I don't have a gap.
I used 3 along the top and made four brackets for the bottom
to help hold things in place
Posted by Macho Toy (Member # 3) on December 27, 2002,
11:12 AM:
http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=011317
Phil, thanks for the tip, the black screws would definitely be
an improvement over the shiny SS ones.
John, that's fantastic and exactly what I was looking for. I'm
having problems (I'm a bit slow) understanding exactly where
to put the brackets on the dash (height) and which steps come
first, second, etc... Will you please outline the steps
involved. At this point I have the dash all drilled out and
ready to accept the gauges and the vinyl, body is off.
Posted by cleveland33 (Member # 1502) on December 27,
2002, 11:49 AM:
Nice John. How did you attach the brackets to the dash panel.
It appears to be a couple bolts with lock nuts, how did you
get them flush with the dash panel on the leather side? or did
you weld studs to the back of the dash panel?
Posted by John / My427SC (Member # 189) on December 27,
2002, 08:40 PM:
Here is a pretty decent pic:
First of all I drilled an "index" hole through the
top of the dash and into the hoop so that I could properly
locate the dash every time I made an adjustment.
I then made five brackets for the top and four for the bottom.
The upper brackets are just short pieces of aluminum angle and
the lowers are aluminum bar stock - from Home Depot.
With the dash in place, and "indexed", I had to play
with the location of the middle three brackets (#2,3,& 4)
so that they would fit around the gauges. Once I got a rough
idea where they would fit, I fastened them to the bottom of
the dash hoop with some self tapping screws. The slots in them
allow for some back and forth movement so that I could make
sure the dash was tight against the lip of the body.
Next, I drilled some holes through the front of the dash into
the #2,3 & 4 bracket so that I knew where to locate them.
The #1 & 5 brackets are at the ends of the dash and are
not fastened to it - they are there to push backward against
the dash so that it is tight against the lip of the body.
I pulled the dash out, and attached #2,3 & 4 to the back
of it with some epoxy glue and machine screws. I countersunk
the screws that best I could and then just ground down what
was left so that they were flush. The dash padding is pretty
forgiving - and nothing showed through.
I placed the bottom brackets at the very ends of the dash, at
the ends - where the 90 degree lip that curls under ends. They
really help hold the dash at the angle I wanted and stiffen
every thing up. I added another bracket to reinforce where the
ignition switch was installed and a matching one on on the
passenger side - which I also used to mount a power outlet.
Also, these brackets hold the dash in place so well that I did
not screw them to the hinges. The "tabs" at the end
just curl inwards and gently press up against the body.
For final install, the dash was covered and the gauges added
except for the tach and speedo - to give me some room to work
with. The #1 & %brackets were mounted loosely and the
bottom ones were screwed into place on top of the 2 x 2 frame
rail. I slipped the dash into place and tightened everything
up.
Note - I did not even begin to work on the actual dash until
after the body was painted and installed because I was still
finishing up the wiring. All in all, I am happy with how it
turned out. The cost is minimal and just took a little extra
work
Posted by Macho Toy (Member # 3) on December 27, 2002,
11:02 PM:
John thank so much for the play by play. For some weird reason
I was thinking I had to glue the vinyl on now as opposed to
later but it sounds like the vinyl will be the very last thing
I do. I want to have the dash at least wired up so I can start
the beast again (gotta have that weekly fix)
I think this mod is one of the most inexpensive ones, yet it
makes the car look so much more refined and "unkit"
like. From here on I'll refer to it as the J. Hudson dash mod
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