2002 Info

[ma] "I've been looking into the option of going the pallet donor route. I saw the information on the FAQ section about Cypress auto and Mike Percy. I gave him a call and he seems to have a plan for donor pallets. The only problem for me is the shipping cost (approx. 900 bucks). Also the prices have gone up since the information was taken for the FAQ. Here is the current prices for FAQ or anyone interested.

0-43K 4,500
44-64K 3,800
65-80K 3,200
81K + 2,800

I might just go the regular donor route because this would bring my cost up to $3,700.

[BP] You might try All Mustang, www.allmustang.com

[RT] "A pallet donor, with all the parts you need will run about $3000.00 aprox. plus shipping.

One place that sells them is Cypress Auto
Phone # 1-800-573-7278, or 510-451-3034
fax# 510-573-7278"

[LT] "Talked to Mike at Cypress today about a donor pallet. He gave me a good feeling for their product and was recommended by Roger Stine. The price seems to be right ($2200 for parts off a 80k+ donor). I know I miss the experience of taking a car apart, but having built a few race cars this doesn't really bother me. What do y'all think?"

[Gl] "If you are getting the whole donor package, it 'really' sounds good to me. I picked one up from Cypress back in Sept (90, w/70+K). Mark quoted me a price of $2800 and he also got me 5 lug conversion stuff for a little more."

[mi] "I went the pallet route myself.

As far as missing the experience of the donor tear down....I assisted on a couple about 1 month ago. Did I miss anything...NO.
Would I buy a donor car the next time....NOT!!!. I would stay with the pallet."

[do] "I got my donor pallet from Cypress about 10 days ago. I had no desire to pull apart a mustang and couldn't afford to buy all new parts. Just finished up cleaning and painting the last of the donor parts tonight. Had the engine and rear end rebuilt and everything is as now as good as new. I highly recommend them."

[sb] "Get the VIN# from Mike and run it through carfacts to make sure its not 190,000 miles instead of 90,000. Mike buys at auction and the odometer only reads 5 digits, so unless someone checks DMV, you won't know. (Odometer is reported to DMV biannually with the smog and on every sale)"

[a;] "I can't say enough good things about Mike Percy and his crew. I bought my pallet donor in '97('91 w/54K mi). Never regretted it. Thru the build process I found 1 or 2 parts that were either missing or not good. They had them at my door the next day, no charge. Your price sounds reasonable. Like mentioned above it's also a good time to upgrade to things like 5 lug, etc if u were thinking about it."

[dp] "Just got off the phone with Mike at Cypress...

Kit prices:

0-43k miles $3800 (rare)
44-64K $3200 (1-2 available per month)
65-80K $2800
81+K $2200

Prices DO NOT include shipping."

Cypress contact info: 1-800-573-7278

1. The Fuel Evaporative Canister, Solenoid and Tubing, 1 each. Where's the solenoid? I've taken all the wiring harness stuff out and I assumed it was part of all that mess.

2. Vacuum Reservoir, Cylinder Shaped, Black Plastic, 1 each. Can someone please remind me where this would be, perhaps I already have it and I'm just spacing out. There's NOTHING in the engine compartment, and I don't see anything hidden in the fender areas.

I followed the Assy Manual procedures, and I checked stuff off as I removed it. These are the only two things that stand out as not be accounted for."

[Jr] "1. There is a vacuum line from the intake to the fuel ev. can. with a solenoid in line identified by two wires and two rubber hoses on it, a goes in ta and a goes out ta."

[1846] "#2, if I remember right is behind the driver's front fender and can be thrown into the trash, unless you're using any vacuum assisted heater controls."

[t50] "the canister you want if you are using the emission controls is under the passenger side fender. Its the smaller one that is in front. The larger round ball is the reservoir for the heater. you can get it out by taking out he passengers side fender liner! The fuel evaporative solenoid is inline with the vacuum line that runs out the front of the intake down to the passengers side to the canister itself. There is also a 2 wires running to it wrapped in that black plastic engine protect wrap. If you took your motor out correctly, i should be still attached to it, hanging down behind the alternator bracket. I take everything apart as sub assemblies and don't pull individual pieces off things like the motor harnesses. it causes too much confusion later on, as you are seeing.

Rebuild the engine?

Question: [WW] "Starting to strip down my 93 GT donor, it has 60k on it (50 of them are mine). How far should I dive into the motor/tranny? Are we talking complete overhaul, rebuild or just clean it up and slap it in. NOTE: I plan to leave it some what stock for now, and plan on picking up some extra hp with supercharger, if the budget is approved."

Comments:

[kl] "If you don't see any oil leaks it would probably be OK just to clean it up and plug that baby right in. But, if I were you I would probably install a new rear and front main seal plus go on and replace the valve cover and oil pan gaskets. You could also pull the water pump and front cover, install new gaskets and this would make the clean up work on those parts much easier."

[am] "My donor had about 60,000 on it. I checked for oil leaks, and everything was fine, so I used it the way it was. You can replace all the gaskets (which is probably a good idea), but the way I see it, I will probably be doing mods on to over the years, and end up replacing gaskets any way.
I almost forgot, I did replace the valve cover gaskets and intake gaskets, as I added the Motorsport Roadster valve covers."

As I was installing a new cam I opened it up. Replaced the bearings and oil pump. The cylinder walls still had cross hatch..left that alone.

Buttoned it up...."

[cc] "did the same my donor had 80k ran great no huff or buff looked like previous owner was a car guy and took care of his piece. I did change timing gear and front gaskets then just cleaned it up and put it in tranny too new clutch though. like you I am now saving for the speed parts or maybe another motor to warm up."

[t50] "Keep in mind the valve cover gaskets 92 and up are the reusable steel shim O-ring jobs that never leak and came stock on your motor. Don't waste your money there. At 60K, id put it in just like it was, don't screw with anything , its still a virgin. Hard to find virgins anymore."

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