Question: [dp] "When attempting to install my E Brake cables the drivers side comes up too short. I am installing per manual, have seen other installs and there is no doubt the cable sheath is short about 2 inches or so. It will not reach the end holder on the trans wall 3/4 tube. I have plenty of actual cable available, I just cant get the sheath with clip it to reach the holder. I assume I need to obtain a longer cable. Does anyone know the part number or year/description to get the correct length? I will bring my old one to the parts store but these guys had a real hard time giving me a shorter serp belt, they will just shit if I need a longer brake cable! If its not in the computer they get all glassy eyed and confused. 

I have performed a search and came away with good brake cable info for rear disks or IRS but I am using 1989 donor stock 8.8 rear.

Answers:

[ME] "I also used an 89 donor, and thought the cable was too short. I did however find a way to make it fit. Sorry i cant get to the car to see how i did it. It was three years since I built mine, but i do remember thinking it did not look right the way i had it but it worked. Keep trying
"

[D55] "I seem to recall some posts about cable lengths being different between early and late Stang donors. Alls I can tell you is mine were from a 1990 LX and you know they fit fine. Maybe the 87-89 are shorter than 90-93?"

[bd] "I just hooked mine up on Saturday and came across the same thing, but it did reach and fit in the hole although it was a little tighter than what I would have liked it to be. I remember reading from other posts that it was tight but it caused no problems in operation. Oh yeah, mine came from a '92'. Don't quote me on this but I think the sheathing length on mine was 39" or anyway it ended with the #9 Cause I checked both cables to see if they were different lengths. No such luck!"

[WC] "The driver side cable from my '88 was REALLY tight, but I did get it to reach. I'm not crazy about the tight radius at the trans tunnel bracket, but it seems to work OK."

[WL] "Me too. Mine was way shorter than I am comfortable with. I checked the forum and got the same type of responses you're getting. You can make it work, but it ain't quite right. It works fine, and it won't bug you so much after you get the aluminum and body on the car so you don't have to see it every day...."

[dp] "Well I looked again and If I use a pair of vise grips and a hammer I may be able to install the drivers side em brake cable. As posted above: "Way too tight" for me. It comes out the rear, is pinned tight against the top (unused or moving) section of the coil spring and goes direct to the trans tunnel holder where it will make a 90 degree into the holder. Probably break the sheath if I could even get it there.

I will measure and post the length. If there is a difference in length for different years, I will opt for the longer.

I will post the part numbers and length."

[WC] "Yep, sounds just like my cable routing!"

[JC] "My cables run, rather crudely, under one of the 4" cross tubes. They rub against it with no chafe protection, guides, nuttin."

[ME] "For those of you that want a more authentic looking e-brake, check out my new handle that will be available at the beginning of the year. I would like to thank Bob Aruda for helping get this part going.  Mike FFR1234 http://people.ne.mediaone.net/katam25/index.htm  this part replaces the stock plastic pieces. The FFR boot will fit right over this for a clean look. You cannot screw it up. Installation shouldn't take more than 15 minutes. You don't even have to remove the e-brake from the car.

How did you cut the e-brake handle?

[RT] "I found the cut off wheel much easier."

[MR] "If you recline the passenger seat by raising the front with a 1 3/4" riser block, and peel back the seat cover and trim the corner off the fiberglass support, your can leave the parking brake handle intact. When the parking brake is engaged it just pushes the corner of the seat out of the way a bit. And the slightly reclined seat is much more secure and comfortable."

[d55] "sawzall"

[WC] "Cut-off wheel. 60 second job."

[mi] "Cut off wheel..."

[to] "I used a reciprocating saw and had it cut in less than a minute."

[sn] "dremel and cut off wheel"

E-Brake Idea

[RS] "I got the idea for this setup from Wayne Presley. The location allows you to reach the handle while you're strapped in, and the Fiero handle folds back down after it's engaged.

Bottom view:

Cable exits:

the photos are in the 3rd album

Unlike Redd Snake I'll have to mount the handle above the floor as I used 1x2 .120 rectangular tubing to reinforce the cockpit floor."

84-88 Fiero Lever Assy. PN: 56085 $39.95 www.fierostore.com
84-87 Front E-brake Cable PN: 56086 $25.95 www.fierostore.com
84-88 Black E-brake Boot PN: 56007 $24.95 www.fierostore.com
Stock Mustang E-brake cable (either side)

From Home Depot:
¼” Threaded rod w/Nylok nuts
5/8” Spacer
¾” x 3” angled steel for Equalizer Bar
Grommets for cable exits
Cable ends (from West Marine)

The equalizer is made from ¾” angle steel with an oversized hole for the threaded rod and slots cut into the ends for the cables. I bent up the tips of the ends so that the cables wouldn’t slip off. The threaded rod allows for adjustment.

The left side cable is a straight shot down the lower control arm. I used a Mustang cable, but I’ll have to shorten it quite a bit.

I routed the right side cable up and over the rear end through the triangular spaces created where the 3/4” tube supports the 2”x3” corner joint. I used the Fiero cable because the Mustang cable is too short to reach the new handle location. I had to cut off about 3” of the Fiero cable (but did not cut or shorten the housing itself) and swage on a new cable stop so that the distance from the stop to the end of the cable housing matched that of the Mustang cable.

I plan on weatherproofing the entire mechanism with a removable aluminum cover. Only the cables to the rear side of the grommets will be exposed to the elements. From here the cables are routed to the drums/calipers.

Not sure how this would work with an IRS. As long as the 3/4” and 2x2 tubes under the seat are the same, you would get the same cable exit point. Not sure how the routing would work from there.

Tom, as for seat clearance, this setup will not interfere with Sube Clubmans. You bring up a good point, though, as I am not sure if this location will clear the stock seats. If they are wider than the Clubmans, it might be an issue.

More pictures can be found at: http://members12.clubphoto.com/brett550252/700754/owner-a89b.phtml

CLICK THE PICTURES TO ENLARGE THEM

To visit this topic, use this URL:
http://www.ffcobra.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=008821

Posted by Redd Snake (Member # 242) on October 21, 2002, 08:13 PM:
 
I thought I would post a follow-up to an earlier thread (now in the FAQ section) showing my Fiero E-brake installation. This installation was done on a solid-axle car with Sube Clubman seats.

Thanks to John at My427SC.com for providing the free photo hosting service!



Homemade equalizer bar:




Cable ends "snapped" into 2" tubing


View from bottom:


I built a 3/4" tube "sub frame" flush with the bottom of the 2" tube to mount a sheet metal weatherproof box to (see photos later in thread):




Driver's side cable exit. I had to shorten the stock Mustang cable and route it around the wheel along the lower control arm.


Continued...
 

Posted by Redd Snake (Member # 242) on October 21, 2002, 08:16 PM:
 
Weather-proof box:






Here is the completed brake lever relative to the seat. Note that my seat is positioned so that the inboard mounting track is bolted to the inboard side of the main 4” frame tube (see welded-on tabs in first photo). I am not sure where others are mounting their Clubmans, but they might not clear the lever if they are further outboard.


Cable routing:


Passenger side cable routing:





 

Go back to the FFR FAQ