EGR Valve Info:

Question: [RO] "I would like to delete the whole EGR spacer/valve assembly, can this be done? Is there anything special that I have to do?"

Answers:

[J] "You need to plug up the lower intake where the hot water comes up top. My EGR is totally removed but I had a custom chip burned, and as far as I know this is the way to do it. If you want to totally remove it."

[JF] "You can use an EEC-tuner to turn the EGR off.
www.eec-tuner.com
I have done it with no problems"

[JS] "The question I would ask is Why remove it? If you are concerned about performance, you should know that the EGR valve doesn't function at WOT. Removing it can also lead to part throttle detonation. The only possible downsides to leaving it on are aesthetics, and at the really wild end of the performance scale a possible restriction in the air path if the EGR spacer isn't large enough. Leaving it on is also the socially responsible thing to do as it does help to keep our air clean."

[CH] "As far as aesthetics are concerned, the EGR is easily hand polished. Take a look if you can see it in the back."

Timing Cover:

Question: [EG] "Do you have to remove the bottom pan to before removing the timing cover. Or do you just loosen it. Or can you ignore the bottom pan.

I checked Haynes, and My 5.0 tech manual. none discuss this issue.

I'm thinking about taking the water pump and timing cover off. Having the timing cover powder coated and checking which cam I have while I'm there."

Answers:

[al] "It's a toss up. My Chiltons says "remove the oil pan-to-front cover attaching bolts. Use a thin-bladed knife to cut the oil pan gasket flush with the cylinder block face prior to separating the cover from the cylinder block." I don't get a warm fuzzy feeling in the "cut the oil pan gasket flush" on creating leaks later. I plan on swapping a cam in the near future, so I'll pull the pan."

[JR] "There are two bolts on the bottom of the pan in front that screw into the tc cover. Remove these and the bolts in front and viola, the cover will come off....provided you pulled the harmonic balancer. Then use the aforementioned razor blade to cut the pan gasket in front. Clean sealing surfaces meticulously and use a dab of RTV in the corners and on both sides of sealing surfaces. DO NOT overdo RTV. Some guys lay a toothpaste sized bead on everything and this stuff can go where you don't want it.."

[1775] "I did not pull my oil pan down because ny new crate motor was sitting in the wooden crate. Installing the rubber gasket beneath the timing cover was a royal pain. It is best to lower the pan."

[Leo] "I believe there are actually 4 bolts through the pan into the timing cover. I've done this a couple of times with no problems. The only advice I can offer is to make sure the crank/balancer seal is centered in the round seal. If your engine has never been worked on it may still have the dowels in place for this alignment...mine didn't. I just 'eye-balled' it and tightened/loosened the bottom pan bolts before the bolts into the block were tightened."

Firing Order:

Question: [kk] "have an FE 302 with a 351 cam that has the older firing order: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. It has dyno'd at 303hp/327lb. I was reading in "The Best of HOT ROD" magazine that "the engine will run, but power will be down dramatically." Is this true? If so, where can I get a new ECM to match the new firing order?"

Answers:

[WP] "The 5.0 HO is the same firing order as the 351W so there is nothing to worry about."

[sw] "I think plus the 351 firing order is better on the bearings, which is why they made the switch."

[WP] "The stock O2 sensor is a yes or no type of sensor. It outputs .5v at a 14.7:1 A/F ratio, the computer polls the sensor to see if the voltage is above or below .5V and then adjusts the fuel back and forth endlessly rich to lean to rich to lean to rich.."

Question: [TB] "I'm putting together a rebuilt 302 long block and have come across many different opinions on what sealant to use and where on what gaskets. Understanding there are no absolutes, are there experienced builders here that can offer advice?

1. What type/brand sealers? (RTV from xxxx company)
2. What sealers get uesed on what gaskets?
3. Apply both sides of gasket?

I'm thinking there may be a rule of thumb such;

XXX type sealer for air seals
XXX type for oil seals
XXX type for water seals"

Opinions: 

[JR] "I use Fel Pro. I use nothing additionally on the heads, Permatex blue RTV on pan, timing chain, water pump, Intake, thermo housing (both sides) that's all I can think of for now. Oh, and DON'T use too much RTV."

[DG] "Have done many engines and always have tried to use Ford gaskets on valve covers, oil pan, and intake. Fel Pro makes a upscale gasket also."

[JJ] "I use Fel Pro blue streak it is a very good gasket. I use 3m whether adhesive for water pump thermo, oil pan, valve cover it is good sealer."

[DB] "RTV blue. I only coat one side so you can remove and replace easier. I would STRONGLY recommend you use the rubber valve cover gaskets if you don't want a valve cover leak"

Running Rich

Question: [RG] "Still having problems trying to get the new motor to run right. 302, Mass-Air converted, F-303 cam, 24# injectors matched to 73mm Mass-Air-Sensor, B-Trim supercharger, 65 mm Throttle body, 1.6 roller rockers, GT-40P heads, Explorer upper and lower intake, Kirban fuel pressure regulator, Windsor-Fox idle adjust plate. I was running cooler plugs, but we fuel fowled those, so switched to hotter plugs (Motorcraft AWSF-42C). Fuel Fowled those in about a half hour of running on a test stand. Now I am thinking of going up another heat range band. Have also been playing with the fuel pressure, and that does not seem to be helping much. From 40 p.s.i. to about 10 p.s.i. There is also a new computer (89), the engine codes are saying there are problems with the TAD, the TAB, and the EGR valve. The TAD and the TAB are not hooked up, but the EGR valve is, and it is just hanging off the side not reading anything."

Answers:

[JR] "I wouldn't mess with plugs that are too hot. The solenoids you mentioned (except for tad, this I am not sure of) when disconnected cause a computer code. Search on this forum for a fix. I believe you use a 10k resistor. The EGR valve could be a problem. This should not be in the circuit until you are well off idle. Maybe 3k RPM. Look into the egr being the problem."

[ET] "My engine is pretty much stock and I was having the same problem. I purchased an "air adjuster". It plugs into the mass air and it allows you to lean/richen by adjusting the voltage that the mass air puts out. It was around 160 bucks but problems solved and it will allow me to make changes in the future. The company is called Interactive Systems & Technologies 1-800-820-1082 or 770-720-1249."

[JP] "It might the EGR valve. Your probably running in "limp mode". 2010 was doing the same thing. When I disconnected the vacuum line form the EGR vavle, it ran fine. Found out I had the vacuum lines reversed on the EGR vacuum control solenoid. It gave me a code of "EVP above closed unit"."

[MM] "Something else that might make it run rich would be your oxygen sensors could be bad or not hooked up. If they are bad the outcome could be rich mixture. what about air flow? Is it restricted. What about coolant sensor, is it in line, and working?"

[yg] "Since you are running on a test stand, I would put the stock 19# injectors and the stock MAF back on and see what happens.
That should narrow down the possible problems."

[AC] "Is your MAP/BAP sensor open to atmosphere or connected to the intake? For mass air, it should be open to the atmosphere. The TAD, TAB and EGR eliminations won't cause that kind of problem"

[RG] "We think we have found the problem. I bought a remanufactured computer for an '89. But it looks like they gave me an '87 computer instead. I converted to speed air, but the computer is still looking for speed density.
Going to try to find another computer and see what happens. The number on the computer is E7##-..."

[WP] "You need a A9L..."

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