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[DanM] "1) Side pipe/J-pipe gasket -
(NAPA) product line EXH part# 31369 (fits perfect no trimming)
2) I found this lower radiator hose to fit a lot better than the
donor one that FFR has you use. Gates# 21794 ( it is straight
with a short 90 deg. bend in it)"
How does it sound / How loud is it?
[FFR] "The straight tubes connecting the
headers to the side exhaust do create a robust sound, yet are
certainly quieter than a Harley Davidson™. The catalytic
converters, sold as an optional replacement for the straight tubes,
are primarily for those states that have tighter emissions
requirements, baffle the sound of the exhaust even further. If
you are looking for the Big Block sound, removal of the Glass Pack
in the muffler of the side exhaust can be arranged, although your
neighbors might not be happy with the decision."
How do the catalytic converters fit / Are
they in the side exhaust?
[FFR] "The catalytic converters replace
the straight tubes as the connection between the engine headers and
the side exhausts. They are located before the side exhaust.
No the side exhaust does not get hot enough for the catalytic
converters."
J-Pipe Information and Help
[DanM] "1) Side pipe/J-pipe gasket -
(NAPA) product line EXH part# 31369 (fits perfect no trimming)
2) I found this lower radiator hose to fit a lot better than the
donor one that FFR has you use. Gates# 21794 ( it is straight
with a short 90 deg. bend in it)"
[BP] My side pipes didn't hang right after the
build, so I spent $100 and had a good muffler shop cut both J-Pipes
and re-weld them so the side pipes would be perfect. That was
a great $100 spent!
[JP] "For some reason the J pipe on the
drivers side puts the side pipe about 1.5" towards the back. It
won't line up with the body cutout. The cutout is the same as the passenger
side. I call FFR and got a new one and guess what...same thing. The
passenger side was wrong too, but the replacement fixed that
problem. I have been messing with these stupid J pipes for over 2
months now!"
[Rod] "I went through the same thing ...
got three J pipes from FFR ... none fit. I finally located a muffler
shop that specialized in custom exhausts and got them to cut &
weld the J pipe. It may not be a clean as a new one but it looks
good with the welds ground down and painted."
[KH] "I had about the same problem on
1690. I had to just snug the J pipe up to the header then I ran the
car for a few minutes to heat up the J pipe and Header. After the
pipes were warm I pulled on the tip of the side pipe and rotated the
flange of the J pipe on the header. This will help take the
imperfections out of the J pipe flare. Once the J pipe loosens up
try to tighten one side then the other work the side pipe up, down,
forward and back at the same time you are tightening it helps to
have two people. Once you get it close if one person will hold the
side pipe where it needs to be and the other tighten the nuts and
remember to tighten one nut till it starts to move the side pipe
then the other. You will probably have to start the engine to warm
up the pipe and repeat this a few times. The body was off my car
when I done this if yours is not it would probably have to be
because you have to really pull on the pipe to get it where it needs
to be. Actually you need to go past where it needs to be. But be
careful and take your time not to break the studs on the
headers."
[RB] "I think the J pipe thing is quite
common. FFR can't know exactly how each engine header is going to
end up. Their jig is probably good for a few different combos, but
most will miss. You could get new J pipes until the sun goes down,
but I doubt you'll get what you need.
If you can, take the gocart with body on to a
muffler shop and tell them to make it fit, I think you'll get on the
road much quicker. In my case it required (I did the work) one cut
and one re-weld to reorient positioning of the side pipe to cutout."
Ceramic Coating Info:
[SM] "Most places charge about $300 +++,
look at their samples and warranty."
[RT] "HPC charged $235 for j pipes and
side pipes in the finish that looks like polished aluminum, $100
more for black.
A lot of local places are starting to do it so that may account for
the cheaper price, take a look at their work and ask for some referrals,
go from there.
Check your yellow pages under ceramic
coatings. Hot rod shows, speed shops are another way."
[DW] "Make sure you do the inside of the
pipes too. That will make them last longer."
[DH] "For any potential do-it-yourselfers
the Ceramachrome [aluminum/silver] and Black Satin coatings are
available from Speedway Motors at something like $19.95 a can- might
take 1-2 cans. The silver ceramic coating needs to be baked at 500
degrees to cure- can't just run the engine as with the Black Satin
or Eastwood brush-on coatings. I thought about getting an old
kitchen oven and trying it out, but ended up sending my pipes out
instead. I believe that these products are the same as those used by
some of the commercial coating services."
BBQ Paint?
Question: [GW] "I
seem to remember some earlier discussions about using flat black
barbeque paint on the side pipes. Has anyone out there tried this
approach"
Comments:
[PH] "From the discussions
that I have had with people that have used the spray on stuff, it
sounds like there is quite a bit of maintenance involved. Lots of
time spent re-painting and touching up the pipes on a regular basis.
By the time you calculate your $$ spent on spray cans and your time
to fuss with it, you may find that the one time $400 spent on
ceramic coating your entire exhaust is worth it. Plus it looks real
good."
[RD] "It is important to
point out that the paint is just that, a colored covering for the
pipes. The ceramic coating changes the thermal characteristics and
can improve performance."
[Yo] "used Plastik-Coat Hot Paint. One
can has lasted me for two years. It's $6.00 a can.
So I think I will be money ahead for about 133 years"
[Ro] "VHT makes a ceramic silicone hot
paint for up to, I believe, 1500 deg. Comes in white, silver or
black. I did my headers and baked them in the BBQ then wrapped them
and sprayed the wrapping. I baked them again and then installed. I
did the side pipes with the black.
VHT is available locally in performance stores. I've gotten it from
Summit Racing.
Also Eastwood has a nice high temp coating you
can apply with a foam brush. http://www.eastwoodcompany.com"
[RB] "I ran side exhausts
with black BBQ paint for about a year and 20,000 miles. If you
cleaned up the metal and used a BBQ paint it does last well. The
places it wears off is in the front. So a quick touch up once a year
and your fine. I think the BBQ paint process is a good budget way to
go. Later you can always have the pipes coated as they will sand
blast the paint off anyway."
[CD] "Lets see $400 for coating or $6 for
paint and it lasts for 20,000 miles. Choices, choices, choices, mine
are painted, and you can always have them coated if you want to pull
them back off the car."
[PH] "Okay, so the cost justification is
up for dispute.
For the $394 difference, I still think the
ceramic coating look is worth it. But then again, it all comes down
to personal preference."
[1225] "Rustoleum black
BBQ paint lasts a long time and considering it's $3.99 a can go
figure. It holds up well over a year and I live at the beach. The
track tires throw sand and a touch up where it turns out of the body
helps after a year or so."
[351] "I used the VHT
paint on the J-Pipes worked great but you need to bake them in an
oven at 550 degrees to harden them up which would be difficult with
the side pipes."
[DW] "Nobody's mentioned
heat. Ceramic coated pipes will run quite a bit cooler than
black-painted pipes."
[1846] "Wal*Mart Bar-B-Que
black paint. I think I paid like $3.84...did the pipes, cats, roll
bar, quick jacks and anything else that needed to be black. They all
match. Like Ralph said, front of the pipes need to be touched up
from stuff kicking up off the front tires. Well, have to break open
that same can of paint over the winter...wouldn't want to get over
$4 into black paint, you know!"
[JP] "LOVE the BBQ paint,
Rustoleum is my choice. I used VHT black the first couple years,
repainted once each 6 months or 6,000 miles, whichever came first,
then used BBQ paint the last time and it's holding up better. How
'bout this: when I inherited Inman's driver side Jet-Hot coated side
pipe, from when he wrecked his car a year or so ago, the front
curved part leading into/under the body was dented in and ceramic
chewed off. I used it to replace my rotted-out pipe (my fault, from
an ill-advised alternate mounting strap I welded on under the
muffler) SOOOO I touched it up with BBQ paint, bolted it up, and you
don't even see the ding, and it matched the ceramic perfect!"
[Ad] "While I agree
wholeheartedly that ceramic will last longer and look better, this
$400 figure seems low. Last time I got a quote it was going to cost
me at least $750 to get the pipes, j's, headers, dual roll bars, and
quick jacks all done."
[CD] "paid $400 for my headers and $150
for mufflers which had to be modified, from Hooker, and now the
ceramic coating is up to $750. If this keeps up I would have more
money in headers than the car."
[1225] "BBQ paint works well on the
Headers and J pipes too. In my opinion the coated pipes especially
chrome will burn your skin more severly during a quick touch on a
sidepipe.
I used a header paint on my new 4 into 4s
called World of Color. The silver paint has lasted a year under the
hood. $3 at most hardware stores.
I would recommend having the headers and
sidepipes chromed or coated after test mounting the body and pipes.
Too many times 02 bungs and adjustments have to be made."
[LL] "guys, i suggest that
before you shoot that BBQ paint you degrease the parts and then sand
blast them. this way it will stick better and it would probably last
longer. i'm in the ceramic coating business but i built my cobra on
a budget so every little bit of information helps."
[1225] "The process I do is clean up the
welds with the die grinder, wash off the oily coating with paint
thinner and then lightly sand with 220.
Shake the can of BBQ paint real good and then fog on a thin coat,
after a few minutes spray again. If the pipes are hanging on end you
can finish it in one day. If you are spraying them laying on a piece
of the donor crate you may need to roll them over the next day to
finish them up."
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