[DM] Thanks to Dan Mitchell for getting this started!

DISASSEMBLY:
1) Remove axle nut, you may need to lock the axle from turning by using a pry bar between the studs or a pipe wrench on the axle. (The manual said to use a 36mm deep well socket, I found a 35mm or a 1 3/8 deep well fit much better)
2) Remove the caliper (2 bolts)
3) Remove the rotor. You may have spring clips on the studs that will have to be removed first.
4) Remove the dust shield.(3 bolts) These three bolts on mine were loctited in. After several attempts to remove them, I ended up breaking them off. I redrilled & tapped them so I
had the option to use the dust shields if I wanted to. I think most people leave them off.
5) Remove the three large spindle bolts (save). I have heard of cases where the large spindle bolts could not be removed because they ran into the cv outer casing. If this is the case you can change the order of disassembly to press out the outer cv of the spindle then remove the bolts (A major pain) or just cut the bolts and replace them with new ones.
6) Remove the inner (closest to the differential) boot clamps rather that cutting the clamps I use a screw driver & pliers to remove them. (just incase I need them some day)
7) Slide the inner boot back to expose the inside of the inner cv joint.(Be ready for some grease to come out.)
8) Gently slide the spindle/axle assembly away from the differential. This will leave half of the inner cv joint attached to the diff. (Which can be removed by prying between the cv & differential. A simple spring clip holds it in place. The IRS does not use "c" clips.)
NOTE:
Be careful with the exposed inner cv joint (plunge joint). The three spherical races can easily be slid passed their retaining ring to reveal the needle bearings underneath. (I was lucky the grease on the bearings kept them from falling out!)

AXLE DISASSEMBLY (inner cv joint removal)
1) Remove the snap ring from the outside (spindle side) of the inner cv. (Use the snap ring pliers that look like two flat paddles.)
2) Push the cv toward the spindle to expose the other snap ring and remove it.
3) The inner cv is now ready to be slid off the axle. (Set aside for cleaning later)

AXLE DISASSEMBLY (spindle disassembly)
1) Push the axle through the hub using a 3 jaw puller. (Mine was on really tight!)
2) Remove the large snap ring from the back of the spindle.
3) Press the hub from the spindle. (I used a hydraulic press.)
4) If you plan on replacing your bearing they will need to be pressed out. They have a 2 piece inner race and a 1 piece outer race. (Cost: about $35-40 ea. at auto zone)
5) Press the studs out.
6) Have the hub rebored for a 4.500 bolt circle. I used approx. .015 total press fit with the knurled portion of the stud.
Which worked out to about .001 over (larger than) the body of the stud. FFR has apparently used several vendors and the diameters will vary from vendor to vendor. FFR gave me a mixed set. NAPA used the 2 letter code on the back of the stud to get me an exact match for the other studs.)
7) Press in studs.

AXLE DISASSEMBLY (outer cv joint removal)
1) Remove the outer cv clamps and boot.
2) Drive the outer joint off the shaft. Use a large hammer and brass (soft) drift. Hitting only the inner portion next to the shaft, rotating the shaft as you go. You may need to slide the snap ring out of the way to get a good shot at it.(Mine took just a few solid hits to collapse the snap ring, then it just slid off with just a few light taps. In some cases the cv joint
will end up cutting through the snap ring instead of collapsing it. If so remember to remove all the pieces out of the cv joint. (Others have used a 1 1/2" pipe coupler with a 1 1/2" to 2" adapter slid over the axle to hammer on.)

CLEANING
1) I started with solvent and finished with brake cleaner. Removing all the old grease and waxy residue from the cv joints. The spherical races can be slid up to expose the roller bearings for cleaning and adding new grease-USE CAUTION. If you pull the spherical races up to expose the needled bearings they can FALL OUT!!! especially once they are clean. (major PITA!)

ASSEMBLY
1) This is the easy part. Mostly it goes back together the same way it came apart.
2) I used end nippers to tighten the clamps.
3) The differential axle seals can be pulled out without removing the diff. cover. Use a seal puller or my favorite, the screw driver and channel locks.

NOTES:
1) Ford recommends replacing the axle nuts during service.
P/N FOSZ-4B477-A approx. $7 ea. from Ford.
Torque spec. 250 ft/lb
2) Torque spec. for the differential cover 25-30 ft/lb
3) If you get rebuilt calipers KEEP the bracket that attaches the caliper to the spindle. The rebuilt ones may not come with that bracket.

OPTIONS:
1) You can use the hub from the newer Mustang Roadster that have the IRS. This hub will have the 4.500 (5) bolt, bolt pattern. The down side to this is the T-bird rotor will have to be opened up to match the Roadster hubs larger lip dia.(The hub dia. the rotor mounts to) Part# YR3Z-1109-AA approx. cost $90
Note: The Roadster Mustang rotor uses a different offset and dia. rotor than the T-bird
2) You can use the IRS Mustang Roadster hub,rotor. This will give you the 11.65 dia rotors vs. the 10.12 dia.T-bird rotors. The down side to this is you will need special brackets to relocate the calipers outward and then you will not be able to run 15" rims.
Here is a good link to another article covering the Roadster Mustang IRS hub/rotor on a T-bird (MN-12) http://members.bellatlantic.net/~fraleigh/Article.html
3) You can keep the T-bird bolt pattern for the rear and just order special wheels for the 4.250 bolt circle. P.S. Engineering will do this for you. The down side, you will not be able to swap tires front to back.

Companies selling special brake packages for the T-bird or IRS Roadster Mustang:
JBL Motorsports (760) 723-2293 http://www.jblmotor.com/
Wilwood Engineering (805) 388-1188 www.wilwood.com

REPLACEMENT PARTS:
OEM- (FORD)
IRS differential bushing (E9SZ-48431-B) bottom , (E9SZ-4B424-B) top
T-bird caliper Mounting brackets (F1DZ-2B511-A) & (F1DZ-2B512-A)- 1990 Supercoupe
(I also have (F3SZ-2B511-A) for caliper mounting brackets - I'm not sure of the difference)
Spindle -1990 Supercoupe LH (F3SZ-5A969-B) , RH (F3SZ-5A968-B)
Spindle bolts-upper (N805618-S426)
Spindle bolts-lower They have been discontinued but some have used (N806365-S1050) as replacements.
Spindle bolt nuts (N801670-S100)
T-bird hub (F3SZ-1109-A)
Mustang Roadster hub (YR3Z-1109-AA)

ROTORS
(slotted)-Pure Performance (614) 764-2325 http://www.pureperf.com
$55.99 ea. add $15 for cad plating

BRAKE HOSE (rubber)
Brake Parts Warehouse (888) 428-7278 http://www.brakeco.com
$27.17 ea. P/N HB81355 & HB81354
NAPA
UBP380194 (left)
UBP380193 (right)
BRAKE HOSE (stainless steel braided)
Earls order from www.summitracing.com
#EAR-28B020 (this kit contains all (5) hoses for the front and the rear)

IRS Diff. Bushings (polyurethane)
MN12 Performance www.mn12performance.com (703)968-6513
$40.00 P/N IRS100 (I had to add a washer to make it fit right)
Supercoupe performance www.supercoupeperformance.com (513) 697-0580
$45

IRS SPINDLE BUSHING (polyurethane)
Vintage Performance Motorcars http://vintageperformancemotorcars.com/ 585-394-3075
Supercoupe performance www.supercoupeperformance.com (513) 697-0580
HALF-SHAF/CV JOINTS
Raxles http://www.raxles.com (super heavy duty cv joints- very $$$)

SITES WITH MORE REAREND INFO
(good site) ]http://www.mn12performance.com/mn12how-to/irs/irs.html]
(Roadster hub/rotor) http://members.bellatlantic.net/~fraleigh/Article.html
(SC half-shaft install) http://www.sccoa.com/articles/halfshaft.html
(wheel bearing install) http://www.sccoa.com/articles/rearwheelbearing.html
(supercoupe web site) http://www.sccoa.com

Pictures - Click to enlarge, or right click and save to your disk.

Brakes - Click to enlarge

Caliper - Click to enlarge

CV-Shaft - Click to enlarge

[Bama] "The 93+ Super Coupe front spindles "SHOULD" be the same as the sn95 front spindles. This gives you a few options.

If you find a 93+ SC, grad the front spindles as well as the rear assembly and order the comp IFS bracket. You can run 4.25 lug spacing all the way around.

You could also grab the 93+ sc front spindles and slap on a sn95 mustang front hub. Then, re-drill the rear hub or replace with the 99 mustang rear hub (Ford part number xr3z-1109-aa).?

[2f] "If you want IRS then you do not want a turbocoupe. The turbocoupe was a solid axle with 4 lug disk rear axle available thru 88. The Supercoupe started in 89 and has the 8.8 inch IRS with traction lock. Hold out for a Supercoupe and avoid the low performance plain jane Tbirds which had 7.5 inch gears, no traction lock, and maybe not even rear disks."

[LC] "According to the manual, you need the IRS from a SuperCoupe 89-97 or a XR7 89-92. This will have a 8.8" ring gear and traction lock. The Mark rears are aluminum. Make sure you get the 1.2" shafts (measured at the CV joint). There should be a tag on the rear with the ratio (like 3L73 which stands for 3.73:1 ratio with a locker). Make sure you get the discs as well. Try to get the whole cage complete, including parking brake cables, brake lines, etc."

Alignment Article
by: Forrest Allen

DIY Four Wheel Alignment of the FFR Roadster

Tools and equipment needed:
(2) 7 foot lengths of 1" I.D. Schedule 40 PVC pipe
30 ft heavy monofilament or string
(4) elastic shockcords
machinists scale, dial calipers or tape measure
level
large carpenter's square
camber/caster gauge
wrenches
blocks to support frame (IRS cars)

Specs:
Front caster 3 degrees (5 if using power steering)
Front camber -1 degrees
Front toe 1/16" total
Rear camber (IRS) -1 degrees
Rear toe (IRS) 1/16" total


REAR ALIGNMENT--IRS

To make adjustments to the IRS control arms, you will have to unbolt the rod ends when you twist them in or out as needed, which obviously cannot be done with the weight on the rear wheels. IRS alignment is a somewhat tedious process of trial and error, but it only has to be done once. The process is made much easier if the rear cockpit panel, the upper trunk floor, and body shell are not yet mounted, so do this early in your build!. 

First thing you need to do is sit the frame on blocks, at ride height, on perfectly level ground (check and shim with masonite, cardboard, etc). The wheels need to be exactly level from side-to-side. Measure with a long 2x4 across the tops of the tires, or a long clear plastic tube filled with water. Or park them on a flat surface that you have confirmed as level. Most garage floors are close to level, but you may need shims. The car need not be level fore-and-aft. Remove the rear coilovers or back the spring way off. This way the control arm angles will be as at ride height, with the frame weight resting on blocks, and the tires resting on the ground, and you can still move the suspension arms as needed to adjust the rod ends. [If the body is on, you may want to put the frame on jackstands, and block the wheels up so that the suspension is at ride height, so that there is enough room for you to get underneath the car to turn the rod ends. Be glad that it will only need to be done once, or maybe again if you change ride height]

You will need a camber gauge to set rear camber accurately--Behrents has one for $40 (get the rim type, not hub type) (www.behrents.com). You can set it by eyeball for now, top of tire leaning "in" by about 1/2" relative to bottom of tire. We will do the final camber adjustment AFTER rear toe-in has been adjusted, since changing toe-in will change camber, while camber changes will not affect toe-in. To adjust camber, twist the UPPER control arm Heim joint in or out of the control arm until it is right. This will be a process of trial and error.

Next we need to string two strings, one on each side of the car, perfectly parallel to the 4" frame tubes, and to each other, at about mid-axle height. The best way to do this is to build trammel bars across the front and rear of the car, so that the strings will maintain their relationship to the car even if it rolls or moves. The quickjack bumpers supplied by FFR are ideal for this purpose. If you are in go-cart stage you will want to mount the quickjacks onto the frame now. Next take the two 7 ft PVC pipes and mark notches about 3" in from each end, so that the length between the notches is EXACTLY the same on each pipe; this will ensure that the strings remain parallel to one another. Next, put the PVC pipes under the quickjacks, so they are wedged into the notch on the bottom of the quickjack, secured by wrapping the quickjack and pipe with an elastic cord, centering from side-to-side, by eyeball for now. The pipes will now run across the front and rear of the roadster, more-or-less centered. Now tie a length of monofilament along each side, from the front trammel bar (pipe) to the rear, using the notches to insure that the strings remain parallel to one another (i.e., the ends of the strings are equally far apart at each end of the car). 

Now we need to make sure that the strings, which are parallel to each other, are parallel to the frame. Do this by measuring carefully from the 4" frame tube, using the square or a plumb bob, sliding the pipes in the quickjack notches from side to side as necessary. They should ideally be equidistant from the 4" tubes on each side, or very close, so that we can be sure that the wheel track is centered on the midline of the frame. This is probably the hardest, or at least most tedious part; but accuracy here is important. The 4" frame tubes should be parallel: if slightly off, just use one side for a reference. Once you have the monofilament parallel to the frame, I recommend marking the pipe at the quickjacks, and being sure that the elastic is firmly holding the pipe. This is insurance, so that when you accidentally bump the string or trip over the pipe and knock it out of place, it will be easier to reset it accurately.

Now we are ready to check rear toe-in. You may use either use the wheel rim, if you are sure they are straight (spin'em to check), or wrap a big piece of masking tape around the tire and mark a line around it while rotating the tire, in the plane of rotation, to use as a reference.

Now simply measure from the string to the rim (or mark on tire). We want to have the distance, from the string to the rim, equal on both sides of the car. Measure toe-in as the difference of the front of tire versus rear of same tire or rim: 1/16" total, or 1/32" for each rear wheel.. 

Unless you are VERY lucky, when you first measure it, toe-in will not even be close. Adjust as needed, by turning in or out on lower control arm Heim rod ends. To make the changes, I find I can just unbolt one of the Heims, then kind of cradle the wheel/control arm in my lap while I twist the rod end in or out. Then you must remount the rod end into the frame with the bolt and shims. If you need to move it a lot, try to turn one in and one out: if you do all the adjustment at one joint it will affect camber somewhat, which is not a problem at this point. Also try to keep an equal distance from the string on each side of the car, so that the rear track remains centered on the midline of the vehicle. You may need to turn all 3 (upper and lowers) in or out to adjust width. Be sure that you don't unscrew the rod ends so far that there is too little thread remaining threaded into the control arm.

After toe-in is correct, it should stay that way unless you alter ride height significantly. Recheck camber after toe-in is set, and adjust as necessary, adjusting ONLY the upper control arm. If you compete, you will want to adjust camber later according to tire temperature measurements, otherwise leave it at 1 to 1.5 degrees negative (FFR calls for -1 degree). Camber will change quite a bit with ride height changes, BTW.

REAR ALIGNMENT-- SOLID AXLE: You will still need the strings to align the front end, so follow the directions above, except that the car may rest on the tires: it is not necessary to remove the springs to align the front. If you have a solid axle, both wheels should be parallel to the strings unless your axle is not in line with the frame. It should be centered side-to-side. 


FRONT ALIGNMENT: The front is easy compared to the IRS rear, but you will need a camber/caster gauge like the Behrents tool. The tool comes with instructions for using it to set caster and camber. Caster and camber adjustments tend to interact somewhat on the front of the FFR Roadster. Basically, caster is adjusted by moving the upper ball joint forward-and-aft, while camber is adjusted by moving the balljoint nearer or farther from the midline of the car. We accomplish these by sliding the upper control arm mounting bolts in opposite directions to change caster, or sliding them both in the same direction to change camber. This is much easier to do accurately if you have welded on nuts for adjusting bolts, or installed John Lisman's widgets. It should be even easier with the new adjustable upper control arms.

Do not set front toe-in until caster and camber are properly set, because changing caster/camber will change front toe-in. You will need to set front toe-in after caster/camber, and this is easily done using the strings. Adjusting front toe-in will not change camber/caster.

Here are abbreviated instructions to use the Behrents caster/camber gauge. Others may be similar-see the instructions provided with your gauge. NOTE that adjustments will move the tire contact patch in or out slightly, distorting the tire and making adjustment difficult. To avoid this problem, you can buy an expensive set of glideplates to go under the tires, or make your own using squares of linoleum or metal with grease between, or do as I do and just roll the car back and forth a few feet each time. The big advantage of the trammel bar pipes attached to the quickjacks is that they will move with the car, so you don't lose your reference points.

To check CASTER, turn the front wheel "in" 20 degrees (about one revolution of steering wheel). Then apply the Behrents gauge and use the dial to center the bubble. Now turn the wheel "out" 20 degrees, apply the gauge, and rotate the dial to again center the bubble, counting the number of revolutions (marks) and direction that the dial is turned. Multiply the number of revolutions by 1.5 to get the number of degrees. Clockwise turns =positive caster; counterclockwise =negative caster. [For example, if you turn it 3 turns clockwise, caster is 3*1.5=4.5 degrees positive]. Caster is the amount that the wheels lean back when turned-think of a motorcycle fork. Values are not real critical, but right and left sides should be equal. More caster helps front adhesion in a turn, but may make the steering wheel effort higher; the consensus seems to be about 3 degrees for manual steering, 5 degrees if you have power steering.

To check CAMBER, set the wheel straight ahead (measure from the string). Set the Behrents gauge to zero, apply it to the wheel, turn the dial until the bubble is centered, counting the number of marks turned, and the direction turned. Clockwise =positive camber, CCW =negative. Each complete revolution of the knob is one degree, each mark is 1/8 degree.

Finally, after camber and caster are correct, set the steering wheel straight ahead, and adjust the TOE-IN at each front wheel. Front toe is 1/16" total, or 1/32" at each front wheel. Adjust with the tie-rods. Be sure ride height is correct for this, toe-in will change a lot with suspension travel unless you have properly installed a bumpsteer kit or otherwise eliminated bumpsteer.

After doing all this, you will be ready for a beer or two. Rest assured that your car should track straight and true, with the steering wheel centered, after these endeavors. If it does not, check tire pressures first, check integrity of suspension bushings, and check bumpsteer (a whole topic itself). Note that we have not checked the frame for squareness by measuring corner-to-corner in an X pattern. While I'm sure that there will be some variation from frame-to-frame, and some may not be perfect, differences should be insignificant, and cannot be corrected by adjustment in any case. Any out-of-square condition will be reflected by a slight difference in wheelbase on one side relative to the other, of little consequence. After the wheels are aligned as above, all four wheels will point straight ahead, and be in line with the frame.

With thanks to a bunch of people, including Steve Alexander, Jack Rosen, Carroll Smith, James Creasy and probably others.

forrest1@cox.net

This is topic Lincoln Mk VIII inner CV boots/straps question in forum Roadster Grandstand at FFCobra Discussion Forums. To visit this topic, use this URL: http://www.FFCobra.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=005585 Posted by Barry Mattingly (Member # 509) on August 06, 2002, 07:01 PM:   As part of my ongoing "challenge" to get the IRS parts finished on my car (I'm now on my 4th axle), I now end up with one Mk VII inner CV and one SC inner CV (aka "plunge joint"). The two are somewhat different, in that the base of the CV is different - the MkVIII one has a removable rubber "tulip" and the SC has a pressed-on metal base. There was a good discussion of this here: http://www.FFCobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=003264#000000 The Mk VIII CV "tulip" base is also larger in diameter, so the FFR-provided boot and clamp won't fit. The replacement "boot kit" (boot and inner/outer clamp) from Ford-LM (PN# F2SZ-4A331-D) costs $60-80 and is not considered a service part, so it's not kept in stock. I don't need the boot - unlike the SC boots, it appears to be made from a polyetheline or similar plastic, very durable - but I DO need an outer clamp. The OD of the large end of the boot is 4" and the circumference is exactly 13". No one (Pep Boys, Kragen, Napa, Ford) had the correct 'Oetiker' style clamps in this size...but Napa had a neat "one size fits all" stainless strap and fastener kit, 5 for $10, that should work. It uses a 1/4" (or so) hex "bit" to tighten the clamp/strap. Anyone ever use these, and will they tighten up enough? Don't want no stinkin' (literally) CV grease spraying all over my pretty car at 140 MPH.....   Posted by craig mapstone (Member # 118) on August 06, 2002, 09:12 PM:   Hi Barry, The Napa tool that I have uses "Band-It" clamps, similar to what you described. This tool works excellent. You can tighten it as much as you want. craig   Posted by Barry Mattingly (Member # 509) on August 06, 2002, 09:32 PM:   Hi Craig - Thanks, just what I need - another special tool! Guess it's better than spending $80 for a new Ford clamp! PS - I'll call about the special rear bar order...   Posted by ghalleck (Member # 938) on August 06, 2002, 10:45 PM:   Barry, I went through five axles to get two usable units and ended up with the same combination. I bought the universal tool and clamp from NAPA and have to say, I feel better about those than the standard type. They tighten very well. I'm thinking about replacing the others after the recent posts of clamps coming loose. Besides, can you ever have enough tools?   Posted by Barry Mattingly (Member # 509) on August 07, 2002, 01:47 PM:   Nope, never enough tools. I'm on my 3rd rollaway - when I bought my current lower/upper box, I thought I'd NEVER fill it up! Now it's stuffed. I've heard from a few people that they had to go through several sets of axles to get one good set - I had one with badly worn CV's and one that would NOT come apart. What problems did you have with your 3 rejects?   Posted by ghalleck (Member # 938) on August 07, 2002, 02:23 PM:   Barry, the first set from the SuperCoupe were damaged when they removed the axles. The second set were ordered from AutoZone, but their listings were wrong and I got the smaller splined versions. I finally got a good set from NAPA after seeing someone post the part numbers (8397) here on the forum. It took a couple of weeks to get them (one from NH and one from FL), but they look good other than having the different boot attachments. The one with the rubber sleeve was very hard to disassemble. I had to move the large snapring from the plunge joint (differential end) so that I could tap the bearings further on to the shaft. After removing the spring clip it was easy to slide the bearing off and continue the disassembly. The spline bore at the spring clip end was not champfered on this joint as the others had been. That might explain why some guys have a tough time taking them apart.   Posted by Brian (Member # 228) on August 07, 2002, 08:20 PM:   Barry I hope you have read the post concerning blowing out the CV Boots at high speeds. My Dyno runs took out all four boots now I am awaiting FFR to ship my new ones, no one seems to be able to get just the boots and clamps. I have posted for some help last week concerning this subject but no one has found a source just for the boots. Brian This is topic Help from anybody who has the lincoln irs in forum Roadster Grandstand at FFCobra Discussion Forums. To visit this topic, use this URL: http://www.FFCobra.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=003264 Posted by workin' on it (Member # 651) on June 02, 2002, 01:19 PM:   Anybody who has built the IRS from the lincoln MK VIII rearend: Do you remember if the CV boots for the inner joint were too small to fit over the tulip? The tulip has a rubber gasket that goes around the outside of the opening to make it circular rather than tulip shaped. This gasket doesn't fit in my new boot. (And yes I threw away the old boots) Unfortunately, nobody in town has a set of lincoln cv boots available for me to compare.   Posted by Phantom Roadster (Member # 202) on June 03, 2002, 02:43 AM:   Joe, I'm using a 1993 Mark VIII IRS and have the same setup as you. Yes, the replacement TRW boots (p/n 224242) are too small in the inside diameter for our tripod CV joints. My kit came with (4) 224242, for which I can't find the application. They appear to be an OK fit for the outer CV. I still have the original M8 tulips and boots and took some photos for clarification. TBird (L) and Mark VIII (R) Tulip installed on Inner CV of Mark VIII Boot ODs are identical Tbird (L) vs Mark VIII (R) If you look carefully you can see the thicker boot flange on the TRW 224242 boot (L) Here's the real difference - the CV flange diameter is nominal 3.65" in the TBird (L) vs 4.00" on the Mark VIII The application part numbers from the TRW/Federal Mogul catalog are 224250 (inner) and 224249 (outer) for the Mark VIII (1993 in my case.) I'm ordering both tomorrow 6/3/02 to see how they look and what comes in the kit.   Posted by workin' on it (Member # 651) on June 03, 2002, 06:58 AM:   Thanks Mark, I knew somebody must have seen this before but there's no mention of this anywhere in the FAQ's. I'm going to check with Dan Neuman from 5 star ford in AZ if he's got the new boots. I appreciate the photos and help. Thanks.   Posted by Phantom Roadster (Member # 202) on June 04, 2002, 11:34 AM:   More info: The outer kit from FFR (TRW 224242) works OK on my Mark VIII setup. The inner is available NOWHERE I visited (Parts+, Napa, Autozone, CarQuest.) Just finding a correct listing was a time-consuming chore. Go Figure! After a visit to the local L-M dealer and I had two Ford part numbers (F2SZ-4A331-D, $84 list; F2SZ-4L537-C, $55 list) for a 1994 Mark VIII. I think the -D is the inner. I'll keep trying to locate the TRW inners. However I may reuse my inners as they are in very good condition along with the TRW 224242 outers.   Posted by workin' on it (Member # 651) on June 04, 2002, 06:53 PM:   Steve, I found some things here too. My local Ford dealer is "CLUELESS". 'nough said. My local Lincoln dealer got the inner CV boot kit no problem - $62.85 apiece. OUCH! I called Dan Neuman at 5 star Ford in AZ ( he's listed as a vendor on this site) very helpful. Item lists at $40 apiece for him pre-discount. Try him out . Lastly, I found a local driveline/machine shop here that the owner "knows someone" who's getting the parts at $20 apiece. (We'll see....) Any rate, I sent Dan those pictures you emailed me, and he went right to work on them.   Posted by KevinFromNorCal (Member # 900) on June 06, 2002, 02:35 AM:   I am also starting to work on a Mark VIII rearend. When you guys get a solution, can you post it to this thread and/or email me. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.   Posted by Keith (Member # 39) on June 06, 2002, 08:40 AM:   Kevin, the Lincoln and T-bird SC set-ups are almost carbon copies with a slight variation with the aformentioned boots. Just remember to keep everything you don't think you need until that portion of the build is absolutely complete. I'm lucky in the fact that both of the salvage yards I deal with know what a FFR is and become extremely helpful since they think these cars are so cool. I had to use my larger salvage yard boots for mine. Look like the new ones once cleaned up real good...   Posted by workin' on it (Member # 651) on June 06, 2002, 09:49 PM:   I agree Kevin, hold on to the old boots. Now I know why they wrote that in the assembly manual. If you can't find any boots locally (so far I haven't) Dan at 5 star ford ( on the vendor links page) has them.   Posted by Phantom Roadster (Member # 202) on June 07, 2002, 12:12 AM:   Thanks for the 5 Star tip. I'll order a set from them.

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