What options should I get before shipping?

Posted by Bill (Member # 1) on May 13, 2002, 01:05 AM:   Body cut outs - cheap and saves time. EFI donor route, even if you plan on buying a new engine/tranny. Then you will have all the nuts and bolt syou need. Hood hinge 3-link and rear coil-overs or IRS To save some money, find people in your area that are ordering at the same time and ship your kits together. It might save you $200-$300.   Posted by FFR2372 (Member # 32) on May 13, 2002, 09:26 AM:   1. IRS, either the FFR/T-Bird or the Precision Brakes package 2. Body cut outs, but don't be surprised if the side pipe holes need some massaging. 3. Tubular control arms. If you are going with the pin drive system, you will need the standard IFS bracket with this package, even if you are using SN95 spindles. 4. Get your custom seats from FFR, if they sell brackets to mount them with the seats. Trying to mount the Cobra Clubman or Manaco's is a giant pain in the ass. Hopefully FFR will design a bracket setup for them, including welding in the seat supports on the frame. 5. DO NOT delete items from FFR and ask for credit. Go ahead and get all of the goodies the standard packages include, there is a lucrative FFR goodies market, and you will be SORELY disappointed in the size of the credit FFR gives you. Outside stuff 1. All of the windwings, visors, doodads etc., go to Finishline. Period. 2. Live axle build, use Autoweld control arms. 3. Carpets, Breeze or Tri-States 4. Steering shafts, brake lines, off beat bolts, etc., once again, Breeze or Tri-States.   Posted by ORANGE CRUSH (Member # 506) on May 13, 2002, 01:05 PM:   Powder coating: Get this done locally, I got my chassis,hinges,IFS brackets and some steering parts done in "orange" for $350.00 FFR want's $595.00 Just for the chassis. Pin drive arms: If your intensions for this option is to achieve the deep dish look in the rear, get the regular length arms in front. This will keep you from having to modify your steering rack, and you really gain nothing by using the shorter arms up front. ( If going with pin drive wheels you need the pin drive arms front & rear ) Chrome plating: get this done locally that will save you real money; the same goes for ceramic coating. Hope this helps Mike   Posted by d isham (Member # 45) on May 13, 2002, 01:34 PM:   Here's a few additional thoughts that may be considered for those who haven't ordered kits yet. If your going w/ aftermarket gauges and plan to use the standard S/C gauge/dash layout, then request FFR to trace, in marker, the dash layout, (they use a template), to the back side of your dash aluminum. Helps in quickly laying out dash component locations. If going w/ coil overs then ask FFR to eliminate the upper spring perch from the frame. Makes it look purdy and saves you time from having to cut it out yourself if you choose. If planning to paint chassis/frame yourself ask FFR for paint credit. At the time of my build last year it was $50. Doug Posted by Bill32 (Member # 18) on May 13, 2002, 07:39 PM:   Paint the frame yourself with POR-15, you save $50 from FFR and the paint costs about that much, and it is a harder, better looking finish than powdercoat. Get the body cut-outs, the windwings and visors, hood hinge/lift option, heater (even if you live where it is warm most of the year, Autometer gauges. Get the prebent brake line kit from TriStates Motorsports. Get the chrome plating and ceramic coating done locally. [ May 13, 2002, 07:39 PM: Message edited by: Bill32 ]   Posted by Kostiuk (Member # 68) on May 13, 2002, 11:32 PM:   Body cut-outs. They just can't be worth the trouble. Flaming River steering rack and assembly. What I nice clean install and a very smooth rack. I can't wait to try it out on the road. Unpainted frame and then POR-15 that sucker. That is some tough good looking paint. Upper steering kit from Breeze. Welding the steering just doesn't sound good to me.   Posted by Jack ffr1846 (Member # 75) on May 14, 2002, 12:04 PM:   I think we want to break down the answer into a few categories or list suggestions with pros and cons. For example, several people suggested body cut outs as an option. Some people (like me) went without the cutouts from FFR and found that doing the cutouts was really easy. Certainly there are some things that you need to be done before ordering....like if you want 2 hoops or pin drive. Here's a suggestion to the question below: Q: What options should I order with the FFR Roadster kit? A: This depends on what you plan to do with your Cobra. Decide ahead of time the following and make your order fit your needs: Pin Drive Wheels? Carb or FI 1 or 2 hoops or single full width roll bar rear coil overs IRS Big block or small block more..... Now, you have a multitude of other options and each has its pros and cons. Some examples: Body Cut Outs pro: It's done Con: It costs $125 and is only an hour of work Wind wings, visors, upgraded mirrors etc pro: Great options Con: If you're paying sales tax, you might avoid it by waiting and buying by mail later. jack   Posted by Spidermonkey (Member # 837) on May 14, 2002, 11:55 PM:   Quick tip - Breeze isn't selling the steering shaft anymore due to a few QC issues. What you can do is have Factory Five sell you one for about 50 bucks. They include them with their spec racer kits. Thhey aren't quite as pretty, but if that matters just throw it into the pile of other stuff you're having powdercoated.   Posted by 2FAST4U (Member # 80) on May 15, 2002, 10:56 AM:   My vote is as follows: FFR Kit: Tubular front LCA's (looks better and provides better performance) Painted chassis (if the factory's quality is good) Leather (for resale value) Blank dash (Allows the customer the option of the various dash layouts and gauge sizes) Body cutouts (well worth the $125) 4-into-4 headers (much better looking than J-pipes) Aftermarket: Custom engine (BB or SB) from a reputable engine builder (more HP for the $) Precision Brakes Company Indy style IRS (the ultimate in IRS systems) Autometer gauges (the best looking/performing gauges on the market) Oil cooler, wind wings, sunvisors from Finish Line (excellent quality and customer support) Flaming River rack, and chrome plated lower steering shaft (very high quality) Breeze hardware (excellent quality and customer support) Wilwood or Baer brakes (Excellent quality and numerous options, depending on how much $$$ you have to spend) TriStaes preflared and bent brake lines (why hassle this s**t yourself?) Fuel Safe, Summit, or Jezz fuel cell (baffled and foam filled, cool) Vintage Motorsports front sway bar (designed specifically to fit the FFR Cobra) Earl's Fittings and braided steel lines (best in the industry, functional, and looks really cool) Accusump 3-qt oil accumulator (pumps oil through the engine before you start and during oil loss due to hard racing) -Keith [ May 15, 2002, 10:59 AM: Message edited by: 2FAST4U ]   Posted by Gary Evans (Member # 148) on May 15, 2002, 11:57 AM:   the options I chose Hood hinge 14 leather wheel substitute bullet mirror for a raydot. delete idler pulley delete paint I would of deleted more. They do give a small credit but depending on what it is it has little value and then you have to try to sell it. I did not order body cut outs but they came anyway. And I am glad they did. In addition I used a dealer, Al Beix, he saved me a few bucks provided great service, and I think my order got through faster because of it. it was not available but I would of ordered the 3 link.

Common Options:

Body cutouts
Battery cut-off switch
Hood hinge
Wind wings
Sun visors
Seat tracks-driver
Windshield wipers.

Good options to get:

Powder coated frame
IRS
Front lower control arm
Flaming River 18:1
Headers
Tonneau cover

[BP] "Body Cuts and Hood Hinges"

[SB] "Those are the two basic ones. This assumes that you have decided against configuration options like IRS and carb."

[EG] "I recommend getting powder coating."

[PM] "I second the powder coating and would add rear coil overs if not IRS."

[RB] "Powder coating for sure! Mrs RacingRob made me get a pass. side rollbar, tough to argue that point. Body cutouts. I'm still on the fence about the hood hinge. Call me a rebel but I kind of like the way the hood looks resting on the rollbars and windshield header."

Will I fit?

This is a common question, here's some answers:

[RO] "I am 6'4' and about 240 with a 35 in inseam, and fit fine. Some playing of the pedal location during the build will help even more. I can straighten my leg out completely in my car with my foot on the clutch pedal."

[TNC] "I looked at the stretch Cobras for this reason, but did not like the dachsund look. I sat in Contemporary/ERAs and my knees became part of the steering wheel. The FFR accommodates my 6'4" body and after reworking the pedals, long trips are no problem.

[DH] "I am 'only' 6'2" and quickly found that I couldn't even consider a car without a dropped footbox or a layout that could accommodate one as an add-on. Getting your knees down that way is the key. I decided to fabricate my own dropped footboxes for my Midstates project, although that maker and a number of others offer them as an option or as standard equipment these days. Some builders also put the seats directly on the floor to get the taller drivers' head down below the windshield and rollbar."

[MM] "I'm 6'7" 36" inseam and have not made major mods to my FFR. Very careful with pedals and put some shims under steering shaft bearing to raise the wheel for knee room. Car not yet on the road but my leg is fully stretched when clutch all the way in."

[DC] "I'm only 5'11" but couldn't imagine my Midstates without the dropped footbox. Even with it the fit is pretty snug. Perhaps there is an FFR owner near you who might consider letting you sit in his car. It's amazing how much difference there is from one manufacturer to the next."

[CH] "some basic upgrades I would suggest. Main thing is getting a good donor 5.0 fuel injected engine. Definitely the body cut-outs, less hassle. The 95 rear end/front end, all four disc brakes is good idea. I got the rear upper and lower control arms (inexpensive upgrade) and definitely better than stock ones. Upgrade gauges to either Autometer or Stewart Warner, whatever budget allows. I also purchased the wind wings and visors with my kit. Another inexpensive upgrade and adds a nice look to the Cobra. This kept me inside my budget of $20-$25, including paint, tires and rims."

[RB] "A simple upgrade that I've become convinced is worth it that's the rear view mirror upgrade to the RayDot mirrors replacement for the stock ones. I've upgraded recently to the RayDot mirrors. Clear image, a little larger AND you can mount them to the windscreen using FinishLine's adapter plate.
You want all the visibility you can get so any extra little bit you can get is worth it."

[MR] "Going against the grain here - but if on a budget and you have 2 - 4 hours to invest in the kit I recommend doing the body cut-outs yourself. The reason is that even with the cut-outs, you'll still need to finish shape all the cuts, as well as the cockpit openings, hood latch and wiper holes etc. These are the parts which require a bit of skill and you'll be into that type of work anyway. You just need a few hole saws and drum sanders on your drill, and a jig-saw. The roll bar holes are marked with a dimple. The signal holes need to be enlarged or notched for the ground tab anyway."

[RS] "I had 1225 on the road painted Explorer blue, SN95 rear w/3.55s, PS Engineering wheels for $15.5k. I used a 92 donor kit from Cyprus. The only option was the heater from FFR. I didn't bother ordering the cut outs because they are so easy to do with a sabre saw and two small hole saws.

After two years I added the FFR rear control arms and engine upgrades. I think there are pictures of it in owners rides on the FFR site."

[RB] "I also went with doing my own cut outs.
I bought hole saws for the turn and brake lites. The cutting of the side opening was easy also. I even found a large hole saw for the headlites. The body is clearly marked to drill all these holes.

The only tricky hole is the rollbar hole. That's the only one where there is no dimple in the body to locate the hole with. You have to use the mark FFR placed inside the body.

So for less than the cost of the holes cut by FFR, Home Depot had the hole saws so the cuts were nice smooth, round, and even."

Powder coat. Got it because in my view this option provides a durable attractive finish and it’s an investment when it comes to frame protection and time to sell. I also did not want to sandblast the original frame and prime and paint it appropriately. Cost is $450 from FFR; done by myself would have been $100.

Rear Control arms. The donor ones had rusted out bushing and had to torch cut the two lower ones. No choice but to buy them from FFR.

Cutouts. I figured it would be cheap insurance to spend $120 and have them done by FFR than me doing it wrong.

In all, my 1993 donor cost $2600, and the FFR kit is $12,104. I have spent a little over $960 in the following: FMS front lower control arms, FMS Cobra valve covers, engine gaskets and seals, oil pump, water pump, timing chain, FMS clutch/pressure plate, engine hoist, engine stand accessories, engine paint, and distributor cap/rotor.

I figured $1000 for shipping, $1000 for tires/rims, and $500 for my DIY paint job. That will peg me at $18,164. And that does not include wipers or heater!

I believe staying under $20K and being able to build a great ride is a realistic expectation, but if anyone can show me how to build one for less than $17,000 (with wheels and tires), please let us know how."

Carb vs. EFI Kit

K&N Filter Kit
Alternate Drive Pulley Assy
Engine/Harness Assy (mostly fasteners)
A LOT of the Gauge/Dash Assy Parts

I compiled this list by comparing the shipping lists from the two kits on the FFR website."

[Wade] "If you plan to use power steering and aftermarket gauges, then the only thing you'd need is the K&N filter."

[au] "The K&N filter that comes in the EFI kit is for a throttle body not a carburetor correct? You would need a K&N round filter assembly probably less than 11" in diameter"

[jb] "Don't forget the fuel line.  Also, there are things you do get. Such as the dash ignition switch, a wiring harness, etc."

[RO] "If you are going EFI, order the EFI kit regardless of the wiring you plan on using. A lot of lines and fittings that come with the EFI kit do not come with the Carb kit. I see no reason not to use the donor wiring. We have no, none, nota, zero problems with them. It is easier to install and easier to hook up and less chance of gremlins than anything else. The painless is fine but, not painless by any stretch of the imagination. If our cars had gm everything the painless would be easy but they don't so a lot of extra work is involved. Having built both and knowing the difference stick with the designed purpose of each kit."

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