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Transmission Information

[bill32] Here is link to the PDF files for the T-5 and Tremic rebuild manuals.  Just Click on the download for the T-5 Rebuild Manual. It includes identification info to check which transmission you have. This is for Ford applications only.

The t-5/T-5 WC manual is a fairly large file (79 pages including diagrams), so depending you your connection speed it could take several minutes to download. It covers both T-5 and T-5 World Class. It also has manuals for a couple of others.
 
http://66.96.130.106/archives/2002/09/transmissions/index.shtml


Can I use a Tremec transmission?

[FFR] "Certainly.  The Tremec is designed as a bolt in for a Mustang and will fit the FFR chassis with a slight transmission mount modification.  In order to fit a TKO the torque arm bracket that is part of the casting will have to be shaved off to clear the rear crossmember.  Both the 3550 and TKO require a different transmission bellhousing."

Can I use an automatic transmission?

[FFR] "Yes you can,  The only true difference in assembly of the kit, is the location of the transmission shifter hole.  Let us know that you will be using an automatic, and we'll provide you with a blank transmission tunnel top and the hole can be cut where desired.  Transcooler lines are custom also; call for details."


Oil Related Issues:

[Rod] Question: "I believe I saw a message warning AGAINST the use of synthetic oil in the T5 but can no longer find it. It may have been on Mike Mack's list or ???"

Answers:

[MM] "I've been using magic purple synthetic ATF in my T5. No problems yet, but only about 1100 miles.(most of them with the input shaft turning 6249 rpm)"

[AC] "I've been using Redline synthetic MTL in my T-5's for a long time with no problems Rod.

If you read the text on the Redline MTL bottle again you notice it states "Most gear oils, ATFs, and motor oils are too slippery for proper synchro engagement- which causes gear clash when shifting" and "MTL meets gear oil viscosities SAE 75W, and 80W, or motor oil viscosities SAE 30 or 10W30, the viscosity requirements of Dextron and Mercon ATF, and provides gear protection which satisfies API categories GL-1, GL-3 and GL-4." That's what my bottles have printed on them. According to the MTL fluid spec sheets, D4 ATF is also a Redline fluid which Redline specifies for low temperature operation in Dextron amd Mercon applications. Redline recommends MTL in high performance apps and racing for Dextron/Mercon replacement. Redline phone techs also highly and specifically recommend MTL for BorgWarner/Tremec T-5s."

[MC] "somewhere, someplace, I heard the same thing. I think it had something to do with part of the syncros needing more friction to work better? I don't know much about how syncros work or if its even plausible.
"

[S49] "I've been using synthetics in my t-5 for a couple thousand miles now and love it, the regular atf would let the tranny heat up real bad during road racing conditions causing me to miss gears and ultimately bending valves so you have to look at the big picture here, how are you going to drive this puppy."

[1352] "My 88 stock 5.0 with 310,000 miles has been treated to mobil 1 synthetic ATF in the T5 every 50,000 miles since the car was new! Transmission seal and bushing were changed at 180,000 miles. Same thing with power steering fluid..Also have oem pump!"


Will a T56 Fit?

Question: [EE] "Well, since I must travel across state for more than half the autoX events, I am looking for a means to provide better highway gas mileage.

A few weeks ago I did a "Tour De Florida" which consisted of Tampa, Jupiter, Palm Bay, Boca Raton, Ft Lauderdale back to Tampa....

6 tanks of gas later I made it home. 3.55 rear gears are definitely not gas friendly. I am pondering the transition to a T-56 (6 speed) but I'm wondering if it is at all possible? Add in the swap of the 302 for a 351W and again, will the bell housing work? The T-56 is presently being used with the 4.6L; I believe???

Need some advice before I start looking for the T-56. Can it be done without major modification to our chassis?"

Answers and Comments:

[MB] "Dennis Rollinger (DRollinger@PULTE.com) has a T56 in his solid axle cobra. You can email him about the specifics. There are about five other guys on the forum with T56's as well if I remember correctly. It is about 5 inches longer than a tremec, so you will end up with a very short driveshaft. Probably too short. The tranny is also quite expensive. The swap will probably run you between $2500 and $3000 by the time you are done, unless you have a good line on a tranny. Call and speak to D & D about it
http://www.ddperformance.com/driveline.htm

They have a T56 that will bolt up for about $2300 that will handle about 450 ft-lb of torque. They also sell a stronger unit, too.

Here's a good site that talks about a T56 installing into a Ford:
http://www.drivetrain.com/fordt56inst.html

They also sell a kit to do it.

Personally, I think if you install a nice 351W, you will have the torque (~400 ft-lb) to drop down to a 3.27 or even a 3.08 rear gear and that will give you better mileage. With a 3.55 I think you might have some traction problems."

[HH] "The T56 would not work on the 4.6L unless you get a special housing for it. 4.6L comes with T45. Saleen S351 comes with T56 and the S351 has a windsor too. The new 5.4L (SVT cobra R) comes with T56."

[DR] "Mike gave you my E-Mail address above. There are a few custom things you will need to do. This is not a simple bolt up to frame deal. I got my T-56 threw D&D they are just down the road. Really good people to deal with."


[M3] "The stock 'Stang bellhousing is interchangeable between the 302 and the 351W. You'll need the 302 sized (157 tooth?) flywheel though and the 302 and 351 flywheels are NOT interchangeable. D&D performance sells the correct 28.2 oz/in flywheel for the 351 for about $200."


Question: [1352] "The stock 5.0/clutch/T5 was used with the kit and a KB supercharger was added (Rear Wheel 315 HP, 377 FT-LB) along with a 3.73gear and 275-50-15 Nitto drag radials to enhance performance. The combo has been driven 5,000 with no troubles but I have "the need for speed" and must up the HP. I never rev the engine and dump the clutch or powershift as it is not necessary, and synthetic fluid is used inside the T5. How much more power can the T5 handle in my 2,300 lb joy ride before transmission problems get in the way of driving pleasure!?
What's your experience?"

Comments:

[SV] "T5Z is rated 330 lbft input torque (2.95:1 1st gear). The key, as you said is 2,300 lb vehicle and how it hooks up. The better it hooks, the closer you approach that max input torque. Sounds to me like your already there. Time for a TKO or Tremec 3550!"

[1775] "Looks like your TQ figures are way up compared to your HP. Perhaps mods to shift the power band (intake ?) upward might give you more HP. You can definitely afford to trade some TQ for HP without consequence . I still think hooking a 2300lb car effects the Ford ratings on the T5 as they rate it against a 3400 lb car. When hooking up, the lighter car should start moving before your TQ #'s crunch that T5.
Tremec sounds good but hey...why not wait to see if it breaks ?"

[WP] "He's got a Kenne Bell blower, positive displacement screw type, the torque will be high compared to a centrifugal (Vortec or Powerdyne). The T5 will last awhile or scatter itself, Velocity is on his third one with a mild 302, David Borden has his first one living with 425 RWHP from a Vortec'd 302. I have 7K miles on my used T5 behind a 377 with about 410 hp."

[JV] "The T-5 isn't going to hold much more hp. But you need to know weather you have early style T-5 or late it makes a difference. You can always beef up your T-5 with svo parts such as a new input, cluster shaft and 2nd gear which are their weakness."

[1352] "Thanks for the advice...interestingly enough the 92 T5 has a factory sticker stating "coverd by a factory warranty, do not service" giving the impression it may from a lot of bad transmissions but Ford elected to use it anyways and would cover it under warranty if it proves defective? The T5 had 60,000 miles when I put it into the car and its received an additional 5,000 with the KB supercharged 302 (so far, so good!) Maybe at this mileage point the teeth are fully meshed (worn together) and thus maybe good for an additional 30% more torque? My other theory is the synthetic lube allows the gears to run cooler and thus the metal is slightly stronger"


I understand that only McLeod scatter shields fit a FFR without mods. True??? Does Mcleod have a website or phone # ??

[wp] "Mcleod is the one that fits real easy, get it from Mike Forte"

[mi] "I have the Lakewood in mine and it dose fit the only thing is don't rivet the tranny tunnel until you have it in. It may rub a bit but its in there and she can't get out! If you put a strip of aluminum around the tunnel to extend the rivet area it would be good. It doesn't need modification but just a little stretching if that makes sense."

[jf] "I seen a Lakewood on a FFR and it hung down lower than the frame rails. It looked like you could cut it off without hurting anything."

[hd] "You have to trim the bottom off of the Lakewood. Get out that Sawzal and have at it."

[351] "I have the Mcleod and it is 3/8ths below the frame rails I will need to grind it a little. Other than that it fita great"


Shifters

Question: [wg] "Pro 5 vs B&M vs Steeda vs Stock. Would like to reduce the 1st to 2nd effort and throw w/my T5. How do these units stack up-what differences will I feel?"

Answers:

[DW] "Look at the Tri-Ax also. I installed the Tri-Ax and love it."

[LS] "I just installed a Hurst Billet+ and it feels great! Can't road test for another couple months though. but I can feel a noticeable difference from 2nd to 3rd."

[DV] "We've tried them all but Tri-Ax. Where do I get one? We've settled on the Pro-50 and even have them make an identical shifter to use on our T56's. (I don't know how those Vipers guys do any serious racing with the oem shifter) Missing third on the upshift is now almost impossible!"

[KA] "Go with the Tri-Ax. It's awesome. I love the Blue shift lever. Can't miss a gear. It has two ride heights. All parts are machined not 'bent'."

[ch] "Put a Pro 5.0 on a new T5. VERY short throw. Third's a no brainer now. Had an older Hurst(not billet)-didn't like it. Pro 5.0 gets my vote."

[DW] "I have not tried the Pro 5.0 in the Cobra. I did drive a Mustang with the Pro 5.0, and drove it again after he put the Tri-Ax in. The Tri-Ax felt smoother to me, and the throw seemed to be a little shorter."


[t50] "Do NOT USE AN ALUMINUM FLYWHEEL. It is not going to gain you any speed as the 5.0 motor spins up very fast in stock form. I have seen many broken crankshafts with the aluminum flywheels, strictly for drag racing, which FFR cobra is not a car designed to do. Also with the reduced weight of the FFR over the mustang, drivability problems will result, jerky starts and poor low speed performance. Hate to stall and jerk around in car show parking lots and mall drive bys and that is what you are asking for with that unit. Save your money and spend it somewhere else."


Should I Rebuild it?

Question: [tf] "I have decided to order a donor pallet from Cypress. Although everyone says how great their service is and that they guarantee the parts, I am worried about the 5 speed. I know they are prone to synchro problems. I am worried about installing the tranny without having driven it only to find out it is bad. One option I have thought of is to get Cypress to delete the tranny, and buy a new or rebuilt one. Is this necessary or am I just being overly worrysome?"

Comments:

[wd] "I got my tranny from them and tore it down to inspect. Bad mainshaft so, I needed another one. No problem for the replacement. Tore it down, installed new bearings, and it's still working just fine.

It just depends on what you want to do and what they'll delete the $$ for the tranny."

[DB] "the donor bought at the auction turned out to be in bad shape. As 2 months of much search has not got me anywhere, I too am going the pallet route. I talked with Cypress and another place called All Mustangs in Arizona (FFR gave me their name). They were able to give me a better price on a lower mile car than Cypress, and it's closer to both of us."


[al] "If you can find a world class T5 for $175, buy a dozen. Double check the ID number. The three middle numbers in the ID identify (1352-000-XXX) world class and non-world class. Look for one of the following... 114-116; 126; 134; 141; 155; 162; 165; 167-169; 174-177; 184; 194-200; 202-205; or 207. The middle three digits of non-world class will be any other sequence. This ID is for trannies up to '92. Any digits higher than 208 indicate trannies built after '92."


Adjusting Pro 5.0 shifter

[RT] "Put old shifter into neutral, pull shifter. Bolt new shifter on, put into 1st gear, tighten stop bolt until it touches shifter shaft, back off 1 turn, tighten locking nut. Do the same in 2nd gear for the rear stop bolt."


Capacities

For the T-5 Transmission: 5.6 pints Dexron II Series D
For the rear end 3.75 pints ALL AXLES USE ESP-M2C154-A HYPOID GEAR LUB (E0AZ-19580-A)
PLUS 118 MIL (4OZ) EST-M2C118-A FRICTION MODIFIER C8AZ-19B546-A


To visit this topic, use this URL:
http://www.ffcobra.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002913

Posted by richj (Member # 646) on May 20, 2002, 07:05 PM:
 
I've discovered a leak in the front seal in my transmission. I asked Gordon, and he said my best bet was to remove the trans without also removing the engine. I hate to remove the top cover on the tunnel, but if I must, I must. Has any one had a similar problem? If so how did you solve it? I am running Redline atf, and thought I might get away with just using a heavier oil.
Rich
 

Posted by dpmac (Member # 77) on May 20, 2002, 07:59 PM:
 
Why not just drop it out the bottom? It is not such a big deal. I have done it 3 times by my self (don't ask) and would much rather drop it out the bottom than mess with the cover and carpet. I believe it was Gordon who outlined the basic proceedure below.

Put car on jack stands
Drain fluid
Pull speedo cable
Remove drive shaft
Remove trans mount (jack trans up a bit to remove)
Remove shifter
Remove (4) trans bolts
Rotate approx 90 degrres and pull.

Two people would be helpful, but not required.

It really is not a big deal.

 

 

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