02-19-2009, 12:00 AM
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#1
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FFCobra Fanatic
FFCobra Master Craftsman
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,897
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What is the secret for welding body panels?
I am starting to think about taking on the body of my project car. I have a small area of rust in the door that I cut out which measures 2x3 inch. I also want to patch up the antenna hole in the fender. I have a 110V, flux core Lincoln welder. I started practicing on the fender I swapped out, without too much success.
thank you in advance.
__________________
Sold MKI, owned 8+ years, now on to a GT350R clone project
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02-19-2009, 12:20 AM
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#2
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Charter Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Seattle
Posts: 4,751
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I think if you haven't a lot of welding experience, MIG welding would be the way to go. But to answer your question, do lots of small spot welds to prevent over heating and deforming. Also make sure that the voltage is not too high otherwise you will burn through too easily.
__________________
Howard
“Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don't have time for all that ...” George Carlin
FFR 6817 Delivery Date: Nov 20th 2008. Roller: Sept 25th 2009.
Currently : wiring done! On to engine building!!
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02-19-2009, 12:26 AM
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#3
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Supporting Vendor & Admin
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Enterprise Alabama
Posts: 6,081
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Ditch the flux core and go mig, then do three more things. Practice followed by some practice and finishing with some practice.
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02-19-2009, 12:28 AM
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#4
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Mr. Congeniality
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Tyrone, ga
Posts: 2,830
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Yea, what he said. ^^^^ Ditch the flux core.
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\"Little Boy\" MKII, 432CI aluminum Windsor, G-Force T-5 dog box, FMS aluminum IRS, and 13\" Brembos on all four corners.
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02-19-2009, 12:33 AM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 90
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I concur with the mig suggestion. Here are two links showing the restoration of a couple old Toyota's that show an extensive amount of bodywork. There is quite a bit of random stuff so I suggest skimming through it when you have some time.
Link 1
Link 2
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02-19-2009, 12:34 AM
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#6
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Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Nashua/Moultonborough, NH
Posts: 10,648
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Welcome to the Boonies. We only have the Bear essentials up here.
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02-19-2009, 12:36 AM
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#7
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FFCobra Craftsman
FFCobra Master Craftsman
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Florence, AL
Posts: 1,987
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After you do the practices, in the welding class that I took we were taught that particularly on sheet metal you needed to 'stitch' weld it. Start with tack welds a couple of inches apart and then gradually fill in between the tack welds so that one area doesn't overheat and warp too much. You'll still have to work it with a body file, dolly, and filler to get it smooth.
Good Luck, even after I took the class, I got one of the good welders in class to do the touchy welding and I just did the body work.
__________________
Lawrence Perry
FFR Roadster #4227, 302 EFI('88 w/Mass Air Conversion), T-5, 3.73 live axle, rear coilovers
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02-19-2009, 01:59 AM
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#8
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Old Chevy Craftsman
FFCobra Captain
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Phenix City, Alabama
Posts: 4,523
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What 110V Lincoln? I have the Pro Core 125 from Lowes, converted it over to MIG and it works great. After welding with MIG, I will NEVER go back to flux core. The conversion kit is K2526-1 and it will cost about $148 shipped to you.
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"Here is a check for the difference... Why didn't you just mail it?? We have a hovercraft!!"
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02-19-2009, 02:14 AM
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#9
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Senior Charter Member
FFCobra Captain
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: bridgewater, NJ
Posts: 3,467
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MIG very low heat. If you are inexperienced, turn the car on its side so you weld in the downhand position.
Also, consider oxy/acetylene welding.
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02-19-2009, 02:21 AM
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#10
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USN SEABEES RETIRED.
FFCobra Craftsman
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: San Diego, Ca.
Posts: 644
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If I remember correctly, Flux core was designed to be used where ARGON bottles couldn't be taken (i.e., remote locations) and for hobbyists not having to have ARGON stored in the shop/garage. Personally, I would burn up some flux core wire to learn and move up to MIG later. Low heat, small spot welds are the way to go on thin sheet metal as mentioned. Less warpage of the material results in a better end product and less body filler to correct mistakes.
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02-19-2009, 02:27 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 684
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Mig , ditch the flux, and lots of small tack welds...
Tack 2 to 3" apart and rotate tacking after each one of them to keep from hitting with to much heat and warping...
Patience, you'll be ok...
__________________
“I swear by my life and my love of it that I will never live for the sake of another man, nor ask another man to live for mine.”
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02-19-2009, 02:39 AM
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#12
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Certified Mad Scientist
FFCobra Craftsman
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Las Colinas,TX
Posts: 1,234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne Presley
Ditch the flux core and go mig, then do three more things. Practice followed by some practice and finishing with some practice.
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^^^^ Ding, ding, ding!!!! We have a winner.............!!!!
Eric
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02-19-2009, 02:42 AM
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#13
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Banned
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 404
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glue it
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02-19-2009, 12:32 PM
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#14
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FFCobra Fanatic
FFCobra Lieutenant Colonel
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Balto. Md.
Posts: 12,895
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Biggest problem when welding in patch panels is rusting later on.
Flux core mig just adds to this.
Gas mig works best along with weldable primer beforehand.
Couple spot welds then skip around till panel is completelly welded in.
Grap a few old fenders,doors,ect form a local body shop to practice on. They are the same thickness you'll be working with
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M III recieved 8-06, 3 link,lca\'s PS+PB,carb,302,373 gears, T5 first start 8/27/06.Go Kart 9/9/06 Tagged 10/24/06 Graduate 4-07
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02-19-2009, 04:35 PM
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#15
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Senior Charter Member
FFCobra Captain
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: bridgewater, NJ
Posts: 3,467
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Another key thing no one has mentioned that I learned the hard way, is don't be shy about how much of the old metal you cut away. I tended to not cut enough and then you are trying to weld to old metal that is as thick as a beer can. Be sure you cut all the way back until the metal is still the original thickness.
Also, are we talking butt weld or lap weld? A lot of the demos I have seen show the use of a tool to flange the old metal and then weld in the new panel with a lap weld. This weld is very easy to make. The problem with this is you potentially leave a place behind the panel for water to get in and get trapped.
Butt welds are much harder to make but eliminate the problem of a large space behind the weld.
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